When Dave asked his friend Inma from Madrid where we should stay in Spain for two weeks, she didn’t hesitate to recommend her home province of Galicia. “The seafood and the beaches are the best in Spain. I’m only telling you this because I like you; otherwise I would say ‘go to the south, it’s much hotter.’”
There are very few non-Spanish tourists away from the pilgrimage centre Santiago di Compostela, but in August at least, towns are kept busy with other Spanish. If you are experiencing high 30s/early 40s every day at home, you seek fresher temperatures in the north on holiday.
Galicia has been described as Spain’s Ireland. It is full of verdant valleys, gurgling rivers and a jagged coastline with a sky whose mood seems to change several times a day. But that’s not where the connection ends: the Celts are believed to have been some of the earliest inhabitants of Galicia, and Celtic heritage is taken quite seriously in some parts.
We are staying in the southwest near Portugal in an area known as the Rias Baixas. Geologically this area is fairly unique consisting of estuaries/fjords that cut deep into the land, and each dotted with pure white sand beaches.
Galicia has always had an independent spirit. In Roman times it was the Kingdom of Gallicea; it was never part of Muslim Spain; and it has a separate language and cultural traditions (such as haunting music and bagpipes – another link to the Celts) as well a small independence movement.
But Galicia is probably best defined for its relationship with the sea. Just north of the Rias Baixas is the Coste da Morte, the Coast of Death, so-named because of the infamous shipwrecks that repeatedly occurred off the jagged coast. The region has also been privy to monumental events in naval history.
The best seafood in Spain accolade is due to its location on the Atlantic Coast, where it benefits from Gulf Stream undercurrents, and its rias, which provide perfect sheltered conditions and nutrients for an abundance of sea life.
Fishing towns with significant fleets abound on the 1500km of Galician coastline and rias are dotted with barnacle farms.
All these coastal towns have lively eating and drinking scenes; in summer, even on an overcast day, bars and restaurants see plenty of people enjoying a plate of local seafood and a glass of wine.
We met Inma and her husband Esteban in Baiona (where the news was first received of Christopher Columbus’s discovery of the West Indies). On seeing ‘percebes’ on a restaurant chalkboard they insisted 11.30 was not too early for a plate of these local delicacies.
Percebes grow in clusters of crooked fingers with a black gooseneck skin and shiny white pointy ‘nails’. You release the meat inside with a twist and pull action. The meat is sweet and delicate, and not at all fibrous or chewy.
But as unusual as these are to look at, the story of how they are collected is more so. They grow only on very steep cliffs where there is heavy surf; the diver, with a rope tied to his ankle, must make a jump into the surf to chisel the barnacles from the rock with a knife, before he is hammered against the cliff by the next incoming wave. No wonder some still had the rock attached!
Tapas-style dining – where you can stop in and have a snack or small meal at any point of the day – works well for sampling the seafood of Galician towns. As restaurants are generally open from midday to midnight you can drop in and share a plate of seafood and a drink, and a few hours later, maybe in a different town, have something else – without being encumbered by a huge meal, or massive bill.
Other seafood to try includes Pulpo de Gallega. Served all over Galicia, this is a dish of extremely tender octopus slices with paprika and olive oil.
In the city of Vigo a plate of oysters and the excellent Albarino wine is known as ‘a traditional Vigo hangover cure’. Sunday lunchtime it was heaving (although mainly with tourists). Where we are staying in Arcade is also reknowned for its oysters.
Razor clams in Combarro were succulent and meaty.
Calamari was made from a combination of tentacle rings and baby octopus; it was so delicately crumbed that the batter slid off when fried - looks messy, but absolutely superb.
There are very few non-Spanish tourists away from the pilgrimage centre Santiago di Compostela, but in August at least, towns are kept busy with other Spanish. If you are experiencing high 30s/early 40s every day at home, you seek fresher temperatures in the north on holiday.
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| Combarro |
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| Galician band taking a break |
Galicia has always had an independent spirit. In Roman times it was the Kingdom of Gallicea; it was never part of Muslim Spain; and it has a separate language and cultural traditions (such as haunting music and bagpipes – another link to the Celts) as well a small independence movement.
But Galicia is probably best defined for its relationship with the sea. Just north of the Rias Baixas is the Coste da Morte, the Coast of Death, so-named because of the infamous shipwrecks that repeatedly occurred off the jagged coast. The region has also been privy to monumental events in naval history.
The best seafood in Spain accolade is due to its location on the Atlantic Coast, where it benefits from Gulf Stream undercurrents, and its rias, which provide perfect sheltered conditions and nutrients for an abundance of sea life.
 |
| Oyster shucking in Vigo |
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| Vigo's fishing fleet on a rainy day |
We met Inma and her husband Esteban in Baiona (where the news was first received of Christopher Columbus’s discovery of the West Indies). On seeing ‘percebes’ on a restaurant chalkboard they insisted 11.30 was not too early for a plate of these local delicacies.
Percebes grow in clusters of crooked fingers with a black gooseneck skin and shiny white pointy ‘nails’. You release the meat inside with a twist and pull action. The meat is sweet and delicate, and not at all fibrous or chewy.
 |
| Percebes |
Tapas-style dining – where you can stop in and have a snack or small meal at any point of the day – works well for sampling the seafood of Galician towns. As restaurants are generally open from midday to midnight you can drop in and share a plate of seafood and a drink, and a few hours later, maybe in a different town, have something else – without being encumbered by a huge meal, or massive bill.
Other seafood to try includes Pulpo de Gallega. Served all over Galicia, this is a dish of extremely tender octopus slices with paprika and olive oil.
 |
| Pulpo de Gallega |
In the city of Vigo a plate of oysters and the excellent Albarino wine is known as ‘a traditional Vigo hangover cure’. Sunday lunchtime it was heaving (although mainly with tourists). Where we are staying in Arcade is also reknowned for its oysters.
Razor clams in Combarro were succulent and meaty.
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| Razor clams |
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| Calamari |
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