Remembering bravery in Crete

Jetty at Chora Sfakia, looking back at the village

The south coast of Crete that faces Libya has always been the less populous side of the island. Coming down the mountainside to reach Chora Sfakia, the ‘hub’ of the remote Sfakia region it is apparent why. There is a steep descent to the sea and  cliffs hug the coast. There is no coastal road, but a summer water taxi service delivers travellers to the small south coast towns. Looking back at the island from the jetty is a chain of barren mountains. In fact, this area of south Crete, Sfakia, is so remote that the patriotic Sfakians managed to put up a resistance to the Turks and the Turks never bothered coming back – so this one corner of Greece was proudly never part of the Ottoman Empire.

Mountains and plateau, Sfakia region, Crete

This drive was dramatic – the terrain and particularly the wildlife that covered the mountainside changed several times within the hour of the journey, from verdant gorges to purple thyme-covered hills.

The port of Chora Sfakia was significant to us because it is where thousands of Allied British, Australian and New Zealand soldiers were evacuated after being driven south by the Germans during the World War II Battle of Crete 70 years ago.

Final descent over the mountains to Chora Sfakia below

They had taken more or less the same route we had, although the road was dirt, they were hungry, travelling on foot, and trying to ambush the enemy to the end. In the previous two weeks the Germans had taken Crete’s three airfields and were making their way inland through the mountain villages razing one village after another. At Chora Sfakia about 16,500 Allies were evacuated over three nights, with naval ships picking up troops in the dead of night and ferrying them south-east to Alexandria in Egypt. But the Germans closed in and 3000 or so on the rear-guard never made it to Chora Sfakia. In total 1700 British, NZ, Australian and Greek soldiers died in the Battle of Crete and 15,000 were captured. 6000 highly-skilled German soldiers also died. With that large loss of life, what Hitler had assumed would be a simple victory turned out to be a costly one. More on the Battle of Crete is available at NZ History Online.

Memorial to the Allies who left Crete from this port in 1941

Coming from a small nation of 4 million people, we are proud of New Zealanders that make a contribution outside our country. And those who spent their final days so far from home under hostile ambush in defence of a more just world deserve our honour and gratitude eternally. I find it harder to clarify my thoughts on the wars involving western nations in more recent years, but I would never begrudge individual soldiers respect for their willingness to step outside their own lives and make that sacrifice.

On the north of the island at Souda Bay, near Chania, there is the cemetery for those Allies that died, a beautifully-tended resting-place near to one of the major battlefields.

In Chora Sfakia one of the tavernas had photos of the old town from 1905 and 1954. It really hasn’t changed much – maybe another layer or two of the square buildings cut into the mountainside. Behind that just unforgiving mountains.

Baked lunch dishes

Best food moment: to less poignant subjects... perched on the calm, aquamarine port, the local tavernas displayed delicious home-style baked meat and vegetable dishes and fresh octopus. We had planned to drop by the bakery but decided we wanted to linger a bit longer before the drive back through the mountains, and stopped at a taverna. Fresh octopus grilled with lemon and herbs was simple and delicious.

 

Octopus hanging up for lunch

Grilled octopus with lemon and herbs